Monday, January 07, 2008

Christmas and New Year's

Ahh, Christmas dinner. It went from a table of perhaps 6, to 20, back down to 14 + 3. It was a handful, but everyone chipped in, and the motherload was a bit easier to carry. We did a traditional goose, with roasted veggies, a ham, and many more sides (sweet potatoes, my father's oily rice, dim sum) - the goose was a first time for my hands and for my kitchen.

For those of you not in the know of a goose, it is rather fatty, like a duck, but even more so. I brined it for Christmas dinner (and for a more recent dinner with Bondrew), and the flavor was through and through. The first time around, I roasted it for about 3 hours at 325, stuffed with an orange and an onion - it came out a bit dry. Second time, Drew of the Bondrew recommended we go at 400 for about 15, then go 300 for the remainder of the time (about 2 hours total time), no flavorants stuffed inside. The second time around, it was really wonderful.

Brine mixes - first time focused on rosemary; second, on thyme. I have to admit, and perhaps it was because the second time around the meat wasn't overdone, but I really liked the goose the second time we did it. Both times, we did a port reduction sauce - the first time was just deglazing of the saute of goose innards. The second time, we started with a butter saute of shallots, then added frozen cherries, deglazed with port wine, and finished with goose stock. The sauce the second time was a lot thicker, perhaps because we reduced it so much more, but both sauces were wonderful.

Basic Goose
1 goose (serves 6-8)
Brine (in order of quantity, water, salt, flavorants (peppercorns, herbs (strong flavor))

Cook brine, and quickly reduce in temperature. What I do, I boil a hyperconcentrated mixture, more like 1:1, of salt and water, with flavorants, then quickly set this mixture into the fridge to cool. I then pour this mixture over the goose in a brining container (I went to IKEA and got this plastic container with a lid) and add enough water to cover. The brine:added water should run a ratio of about 1:2.

Preheat oven to 400. Remove goose from brine, and discard brine. Cut excess fat from neck and rear. Prick all over with fork, to allow fat some avenues to be able to escape. Bake in oven for about 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 325 for about an hour and a half - then test for temperature, either at breast or thigh.

Now here's the best part. That pan filled with goose fat? Cut up some potatoes and carrots, what ever you'd like to par-fry, and toss them into the fat. While the bird rests, put the mixture back into the oven, and bake for about 30 minutes, stirring occassionally. In particular for the potatoes, you'll have some of the best-tasting potatoes you've ever had. And don't add salt - the oil already carries the salt from the brine!

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